Cutting notch for custom taillight
You dont have to, but next step I did was install the engine into the bike Frame
Install the engine mount bolts and torque them up. Front mounts on the Standard model have one bolt unlike the Special models which have a 3 bolt bracket
Bolt the middle drive gear to the drive shaft - there are 4 bolts
Pull the boot over and secure it to the rear of the middle drive housing.
Install alternator and cover
Install ignition plate to the LHS
Screw on the wire for the Neutral switch under the LHS
Install tach drive to the front of the head. I used a new O-ring and seal
Next, at the rear, install the rubber inlet manifolds.
Add clamps and also Vac lines to Cylinders 1 and 3 (Well if you still use the standard fuel petcocks)
External Oil feed pipe. I used New copper washers either side of the pipe on the union bolts.
Next, bolt the plastic cover on top of the Starter Motor
Install Oil cooler lines to the front
Prepare oil filter housing with O-ring around the outside. New O-ring on the bolt. Push bolt through and slide on the spring and then the washer.
Install onto the engine with new oil filter
Install rocker cover with new gasket and silastic. The brackets at the front are for Air scoop which is normally found on the Standard models. It will help with keeping the middle cylinder cooler.
Air scoop fitted
Next - Top up with Oil! I’m using a running in oil for this.
Fill until its just above the top line on the oil level sight window
Install new exhaust gaskets
Bolt up the header pipes but dont tighten completely
Attach the muffler to the headers and align the pipes up properly. Then tighen the nuts to secure the header pipes to the head properly.
Attach Clutch cable and the rubber cover
Install carbs and air filter. Also Spark plugs and leads.
Next to do is put the tank back on and connect up the fuel lines. Also Hook up the battery
Set petcocks to prime, turn ignition key on, full choke and kick it over!
And of course it started almost straight away!
Check your oil level.
Clutch cable will need to be adjusted properly. Check your timing and make sure your carbs are tuned properly! And then go for a ride and take it easy!!
Here’s a short vid of my Triple running! (sorry its 14mb but I think its worth the download )
Cheers all, any questions, just ask away!!!
Next up, insert the Plastic Orange Oil Separator
Apply silastic to the oil breather cover and to the crank case with a new gasket in between and bolt it up
On to the Middle drive gear now - Again silastic and new gasket!
Slide on the spring and drive adapter
And Bolt it all up!
Carefully turn the engine over
Insert Dowels for the Oil pump
Check the seal on the oil pump and apply some silastic
Carefully install the Oil pump assembly to the bottom of the crank case. Make sure it sits flush and the gear is engaged properly. Bolt it on and then add the strainer housing.
Poor some oil into the Strainer housing to prime the oil pump and screw on the strainer screen
Get your sump ready - Silastic and Gasket! For now I’ll be using the standard sump, but I have a deep one which I’ll put on when I do my next oil change.
Bolt the sump to the bottom of the crank case.
Next is the XS850 oil cooler adapter plate. Make sure the large O-ring is in good condition and run some silastic around it. Bolt it onto the bottom of the engine and torque the bolt up to the specification in the book.
Carfully turn the engine over again, and install the starter motor.
Next is Pistons and Rings!
This can be a bit tricky and the battery for my camera was getting low so I didnt get too many Pics, But gently slide the new rings on and line them up as per the directions in the book.
Insert Gudgeon Pin into the side of the piston and place on top of the conrod. Gently slide the gudgeon pin through the rod and then all the way through the piston. Secure the gudgeon pin with a new circlip - Have fun doing this, and make sure you cover all holes on top of the crank case with a rag so the clip doesnt accidently fall in. Otherwise you could be in big trouble.
Repeat for the remaining 2 pistons.
Install New seal with Silastic
Place Dowels into the crankcase. Add rubber O-rings to the larger two dowels. Make sure the flat side of the O-ring faces up
Add Cylinder Base Gasket and make sure the dowel is in place
Turn cylinder over and with some silastic place the orange O-rings into the groove
Next, gently slide the cylinders onto the crankcase studs. Feed the cam chain through and secure with wire so the chain doesnt fall back into the crankcase.
Compress the Piston rings with your fingers and gently slide the cylinders onto the pistons
Make sure the crank is at Top Dead Centre.
Fit seal to the grove with some silastic
Gently place head gasket on over the studs and place cam chain and guides through the opening.
Next up is dowels again. Make sure the 2 larger dowels on the RHS have the O-ring with the flat side up.
Carefully slide the head onto the studs and feed cam chain through the opening and again secure the ends of the chain with wire so it doesnt slide down
Place nuts with washers onto the ends of the studs. The two centre nuts on the exhaust side have a thicker washer. Torque them down in the order specified in the book to 25 ft lb
Install the bolts on the sides and torque them to 14 ft lb
Turn Exhaust cam to approx 11 o’clock and install the cam caps as labeled from Left to Right and torque the nuts down to 7 ft lb
With the Inlet cam, turn it to approx 2 o’clock and repeat - install cam caps and torque from left to right.
Now rotate the exhaust cam clockwise and the Inlet cam anti-clockwise so the Dots align with the Lines on the cam caps
Next, attach cam chain together with new master link. I use some wooden clothes pegs as wedges to stop the chain from falling down. Cover the openings with a rag to stop the master link from falling into the crankcase.
Install the Cam chain ‘bridge’ guide
Attach Cam chain tensioner with new gasket and silastic. Remove the end cap and loosen the lock bolt on the side.
Rotate the crank anti clockwise. Watch the end of the cam chain tensioner. You’ll notice that it moves In and Out.
When the end of the tensioner is in as far as it will go, then tighten up the bolt on the side of the tensioner and tighten the locknut
Install the cap on the end of the tensioner
Yep those are it
We’re Onto the LHS today…
1st is the transmission countershaft bearing housing. Apply silastic around the O ring and around the edge
Install into the motor with the 4 allen bolts
Install the oil delivery pipe and torque the bolts to 14ft lb
Next are the cam chain guides. Make sure you’ve got the dowel through the middle, and the washers either side
Next install the starter clutch. Make sure you’ve got the large shim washer behind and the smaller one infront
Next is cam chain, Ive got a new one from Steve Lloyd…
Install the chain and secure the ends with wire so it doesnt fall back in
Install the oil pump drive gear, make sure its slotted into the gear on the crank correctly, install the washer and torque the bolt to 73 ft lb
And lastly the starter motor Idle gear and shaft
Next, carefully install the Clutch pushrod from the LHS of the engine, rotate it as you gently push it past the seal
Apply some grease to the rear of the Clutch Push Lever Assembly that the clutch cable attaches to
Next apply some silastic to the mating face of the LHS Engine cover
And also silastic to the crank case
Put new gasket on and check that the dowels are in place
Bolt on the LH Side cover, make sure you put washers under the 2 bolts with Red arrows
LHS Completed - Back to the clutch now…
Install the ball bearing into the shaft
Push it in with a thin screw driver until its against the end of the pushrod
Install the rectangular bar
And slide the washer over so its against the rectangular bar
Next is to install the clutch pressure plate. Make sure the arrows on the front of the pressure plate line up with the arrows on the clutch boss assembly
Get your clutch springs ready. If the length is 41.5mm or less they need to be replaced. I’ve got a set of Barnett Heavy Duty springs for mine
Install 2 springs with bolts and tighten them with a screw driver, but not all the way, because as you can see in the picture, the tabs on the clutch plates need to be aligned properly
To align the tabs on the clutch plates, slide on the clutch outer housing, and the ‘fingers’ on the housing will help align the tabs, you might need to turn/adjust some by hand to get it right.
Remove the clutch outer housing and tighten the 2 bolts. Install the remaining 4 bolts and then torque them all up to 6 ft lb
Install new circlip
And then slide washer on
Slide on the clutch outer housing and make sure you dont forget the large shim - indicated with the red arrow
Next, primary chain and the Primary driven gear. I’ve got a new primary chain, so I wont be using a tensioner for now.
Insert the clutch damper assembly into the Primary driven Gear
Next is the Large Circlip which can be a little bit tricky to get on
And then Shim followed by washer and then small circlip
Bearing housing bracket is next. Make sure the dowels are in place and tighten the 4 bolts that hold it on
Apply Silastic to the RHS Cover
And to the Crank case mating surface. Make sure the dowels are in place.
Put new gasket on, and gently tap the side cover on with a soft mallet
Bolt it all up, and install the Alternator Rotor torque the bolt up to specification in the book
Okkkk I did some more work today! As much as I could before the batterys in the camera died! Could have done a few more things, but we’ll wait until next time!
Install the oil pressure switch. I put some loctite on the threads and some silastic on the o-ring
Then the boot with the wire for the harness
Next, install the shift lever shaft. I installed a new seal 1st. Gently push it all the way through.
And inside the case check its lined up correctly
Add the washer and circlip
Install the secondary shift paw and E-clip
Shift the transmission into 2nd gear, and make sure these 2 markings line up
If they dont, losen the nut and adjust the screw until the markings line up. I applied loctite to the threads to make it harder for the nut to work loose
Next up, we install the kick start assembly.
Insert the shaft and clip on the spring. Attach the kick lever and turn the shaft anti-clockwise until the shaft has locked into the case
Install the shim washer, roller bearings and the kick starter idle gear, along with the shim washer and circlip to secure it.
Clutch assembly comes next, Slide on the spacer and the washer
Ok, I did some research while I was waiting around for parts, I looked on the xs650 and xs1100 sites to find some clutch tips, why? Because they’re very similar models, and for some reason theyve got more followers that have done more work to them
All these steps are to minimise future clutch slip.
From the Clutch Boss assembly, remove the wire clip that goes around the bottom holding the metal clutch plate in place. Use some thin pliers and a thin screw driver.
Remove the metal plate. This plate is the same as the other metal clutch plates in the XS750 clutch, or the same as the 2 thin plates in the XS850 clutch. You can either reuse it if its ok and not scored badly etc or if you’ve got one of the above mentioned metal clutch plates spare thats ok, use that. My plan is to just turn it around, as the otherside hasnt yet come into contact with the other moving clutch parts
Clean up the surface with some emery paper, nothing too coarse as we just only want to lightly roughen up the surface.
Clean the plate in some solvent and its ready to go back on.
Next it to replace the wire clip that holds the metal plate in place
Make sure the wire sits in the grove properly that runs around the bottom of the clutch boss
Slide on the clutch boss assembly, the conical washer - convex side out, the lock washer and the boss nut
Seen these tools before? They’re From ‘Bills Second gearfix’ on the triples website. 2 metal clutch plates welded together with a metal bar, used to stop the clutch boss assembly from turning while tightening the nut with the deep socket.
Book says to tighten this nut to 83 ft lb, but I dont have a socket big enough for this so I just made it very tight!
Lastly, bend up the side of the lock washer to stop the nut from comming loose
Brand new clutch friction plates - They must soak in engine oil overnight - use the same oil as you would put in your Triple engine
Measure the thickness of your steel clutch plates, they shouldnt be too worn at all and can be reused.
XS750 plates are all 1.6mm, XS850 plates outer 2 are 1.6mm and inner 4 are 2mm. Im using XS850 plates.
Clean them up with emery paper! Make sure you do both sides! Clean them in solvent once done.
Also roughen up the edge of the clutch pressure plate and also clean in solvent, mine was really shiney and smooth as if it had been professionaly machine polished!
Next, install the clutch plates… starting with a friction plate
And then a steel plate
Then alternate until all the discs are used…
Today class, we’re rebuilding my Triple engine. Dont know how long its going to take me but some pretty pics with words surely will help others rebuild theirs later on…
I know this has been done in the past by other forum members, but I’m going to show my engine getting rebuilt from scratch!
1st of all we start with the crank case top half…
I had my top half sandblasted and repainted with Hi-temp black paint
Turn it over and let the fun begin.
Install the kickstarter gear. Manouver the shaft in, and line up the clip into the case and install the holder and the allen bolts. Then put the gear on with the washer and circlip
Next we’re going to install the bearings.
Now in my case, the crank was linshed and the rods were resized and completely cleaned up by a machining shop.
They even had to remove the balls on the sides of the crank to clean out the crap that had accumulated behind and into the crank.
The machine shop said for me to use the biggest size bearings - these are the ones Yamaha marked blue. I was advised to put the new bearings in and torque the cases up and make sure everything spins freely. You probably wont need to do this, but its always good to dummy assemble like this…
Anyways here I learnt that Ebay is your friend… Bearing shell kits, a LOT cheaper than paying the arm or leg that Yamahaha charges!
Install the bearing shells into the crankcase, dont forget about the sidethrust bearing
Apply oil to the bearing surfaces:
And carefully place the crank into the case
Next get your nice clean rods, install the bearing shells and apply oil to the bearing surfaces.
Assemble them onto the crank and carefully tighten the rod bolts to the required 27 ft lb
Rods are on!
Now gently lift the crank and insert the rods through the holes into their correct position
Thats the top half done! (well for now)
Next Insert the bearings into the crank case bottom half, and apply oil to the bearing surfaces!
Insert the case locating dowels, disregard the one in the middle there… its just there for looks and isnt actually needed at all
Put the cases together!
Install bolts numbered 1-10. Then tighten in 2 steps with your torque wrench to the specifications in the book
1st stage i think is 16 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 7 ft lb for bolts 9-10
2nd stage is 27 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 14 for bolts 9-10 (will check book later to confirm these numbers)
Now turn the crank, make sure everything spins freely with your new bearings etc etc
Now pull it apart again!!
Losen bolts 1/2 turn in reverse order to how you installed them, and then remove them in that order.
And now we’ve got the 2 crankcase halves separated - Top half with the crank still sitting there, and bottom half ready for the transmission to be installed.
Put the top half with crank aside, as its not needed for a little while, and be ready for the next part - Installing the transmission!!
Ok… I cheated a little bit, as you may have seen in a few of the above pics, some of the transmission was already installed when I started!
I’ll tell how to do it anyways…
Install the shift cam
Install the detent bolt and neutral switch
And the locating bolt
Manouver the gear shaft into place
Place the clip into the grove on the bearing, and install the cap so the clip sits in the grove and holds the bearing in the correct position
Insert the shift forks onto the 4th and 5th gears and line the pins up into the shift cam
Insert the fork shaft through the RHS of the engine so it passes through the gearshaft cap, add the washer, and push the shaft through the shift forks.
Install the E-clip, making sure it holds the washer against the gearshaft cap.
The SF model has a lock-bracket to stop the nuts from working loose. Place the lock bracket over over the studs, and apply loctite to the threads.
Install the nuts and torque to correct specification of 14 ft lb
Carefully bend the lock tabs up very gently by hitting a screwdriver against them with a hammer so they’re locked in place. The tabs break easily, notice one has already broken off!
Apply loctite to the layshaft bolt
And install it with the spring washer and plate washer into the countershaft
Hold the gearshaft with a big screwdriver, and torque the countershaft bolt to 18 ft lb
Next, Install the main gearshaft
Add the shift fork, insert the bar and install the E clips as shown here
Next, install the Clutch pushrod seal. Apply some grease to the lip. I’ve run some gasket sealant around the outside of the seal
Next add the middle gear assembly. Take note in the book of how the circlip halves sit. Again with the seal, Ive applied gasket sealant around it.
Again apply oil to your bearing shells
And place the crank into the case
Dont forget to add this O-ring!
Apply gasket sealant to the mating surfaces of both crank halves
Carefully join both halves together, check the locating dowels have inserted properly.
Next, carefully turn it all over and start installing bolts 1-14 in the correct numbered pattern, and then torque them in the two stages again.
Torque stages for the bolts are:
1st stage, bolts 1-8 are 13 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 7 ft lb
2nd stage, bolts 1-8 are 27 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 14 ft lb
Turn it over and do the same with bolts 15-24, and again torque these in two stages.
Then install the last bolt which goes in the RHS above the layshaft bolt
Now there you are, assembled engine crankcase, waiting for more!
Next up will be the installation of the clutch components, the electric starter gears and the pistons/cylinders/head etc
Like I said, this may take me some time (well the rest definitely will) so keep checking for updates, and feel free to comment!!
The middle port on my bike was capped off with a rubber cap. The left went to the left petcock and the right to the right petcock.
Are you speaking of the 3 vacuum ports on the top of the intake?
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