I would like to help
I added you as a data migrator, I’ll message you info.
those ports are typically used for syncing the 3 carbs together, when not in use the middle port is just capped off.
PICKERINGTON, Ohio – The American Motorcyclist Association has announced that next year’s premier celebration of vintage motorcycling, AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days, will be July 6-8, 2018, at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio.
“AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days is one of the top motorcycling events in the country that brings motorcyclists together around racing, bike shows, history, recreational activity, and buying and selling motorcycles, parts and gear,” said AMA Chief Operations Officer Jeff Massey. “If you love motorcycles, old or new, AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days has something for you, regardless of your age or experience level.”
A fundraiser for the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame, AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days showcases classic motorcycles of all makes and styles, and honors the riders who made them famous.
“AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days is an annual tradition on Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course’s summer calendar. It is our longest continuously running event which speaks not only to our valued partnership with the AMA but to the deep passion for motorcycling across the country,” said Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course President Craig Rust. “We’re proud to be working with the AMA again to bring back this great event to North Central Ohio for the 24th consecutive year.”
Activities include the AMA Vintage Grand Championship, which features road racing, motocross, hare scrambles, trials and dirt-track racing. Another top attraction is North America’s largest motorcycle swap meet with parts, bikes and memorabilia from all eras. Bike shows bring out examples of some of history’s most beloved motorcycles. Stunt shows and demo rides of current production bikes keep attendees entertained, while seminars on numerous topics by noted motorcycling experts keep them informed.
Tickets go on sale exclusively to AMA members through the AMA on Nov. 1, and members who purchase early receive an additional $5 savings off the early-bird pricing. Members can visit www.amavintagemotorcycledays.com or call (614) 856-1900 to order their tickets. Non-AMA members can purchase tickets through Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course starting Dec. 1 online at www.midohio.com or by calling (419) 884-4000.
AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days is a family-friendly event. Children 12 and under get in free with a ticketed adult. Free parking is also available on site.
Proceeds from AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days benefit the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame. The mission of the Hall of Fame, located on the AMA campus in Pickerington, Ohio, is to tell the stories and preserve the history of motorcycling’s legends and heroes. For more information, call (614) 856-2222, or visit the Hall of Fame’s website at www.motorcyclemuseum.org.
About the American Motorcyclist Association
Founded in 1924, the AMA is a not-for-profit member-based association whose mission is to promote the motorcycle lifestyle and protect the future of motorcycling. As the world’s largest motorcycling rights and event sanctioning organization, the AMA advocates for riders’ interests at all levels of government and sanctions thousands of competition and recreational events every year. The AMA also provides money-saving discounts on products and services for its members. Through the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Pickerington, Ohio, the AMA honors the heroes and heritage of motorcycling. For more information, visit www.americanmotorcyclist.com.
Not a member? Join the AMA today: www.americanmotorcyclist.com/membership/join
If anyone is interested you can request me in PM for a colored electrical wiring of the XS750E that I just finished.
I would insert it here but the picture is too large so it might be complicated, I get an error when uploading.
I also got the wiring in good quality for XS750, XS750SE but it’s in french though it’s nor hard to translate and I can help you in case you need translation, and I didn’t color them.
awesome, feel free to host via something like dropbox and link back to here.
Hey All, figured I would show a few pics and details of my 1977 2D Cafe Racer Project.
I originally bought this bike in a pile of parts for $100, little by little of the years I pieced it back together, put in a 79 Special engine because the original was shot. cut up the frame and went the route of a cafe racer, swapped exhaust to a Jardine 3 into 1, pod filters from MIkesXS, clubman bars, custom throttle cable, short twist race throttle, aftermarket gauges, signals, and a bunch more.
Yea, I have been throwing the idea around for awhile, but with more and more people complaining about not being able to register it was really making sense to bite the bullet and get something up and running.
I will be trying to import obvious stuff over, but yea we will not be able to pull everything over, which stinks since there is SO much content.
The Special was produced starting in '78 and had an “S” in the model designation, i.e. XS750-SE. In 1979 it would have been XS750-SF, with the last letter changing for each year. A '78 Standard would be XS750-E, etc…
The differences are mainly cosmetic. The Special has a teardrop shaped tank, pull-back handle bars and a stepped seat. It was a “factory custom” as they used to call it. Mechanically, the Special has a leading axle fork whereas the Standard has the axle going through the centerline of the fork tubes. Also, the front brake calipers are different on the Special and the Special has dual megaphone exhausts that stop at the rear axle while the Standard has dual reverse cones that extend past the rear axle.
The Special in this picture has replaced the stock exhaust with a 3 into 1 and it has an aftermarket king/queen seat. And, now that I look at it, the Standard has a 3 into 1 also.
On the instrument cluster, between the speedo and the tach, are the turn signal indicators. Just below this is a display that is marked “headlight”. What is this for?
The triples came with a reserve lighting unit that acts as a fail safe device. If you are riding with the low beam on and the bulb burns out or there is a faulty connection, the reserve lighting unit automatically switches to the high beam and illuminates the indicator light that is marked “headlight”. The same thing will happen if the high beam goes out, it automaticly switches to the low beam. The “headlight” indicator light is there to tell you that there is a problem somewhere in the lighting system.
The cam chain should be adjusted every five thousand miles. To adjust the chain follow the procedure below.
The tensioner is spring loaded. The lock screw simply holds the tensioner in place. When you loosen the lock screw the spring will take up any slack in the chain. Adjust the chain with the engine cold.
Buy the O ring and seal from Yamaha. Disassemble the cable from the drive paying attention to the way the loose parts are placed and oriented–especially the little Y-shaped retaining yoke; it must be placed so that as its screw is tightened it presses tighter against the flange of the drive. Make a sketch for the next time you DON’T pay attention.(Now is a good time to check the tach-drive cable. Pull it out and look at it. If it’s nicked, replace it. The drive seal and O ring MAY come with a new cable.) Clean the parts of the cable assembly you’re keeping down to bare metal, i.e., connector threads, cable end, etc. Get some FormAGasket or any good gasket cement. Coat the threads on the cable connector, the OUTSIDE of the seal, and location for the O ring and the O ring itself. A thin skin of the cement is all that’s needed; try to avoid getting any on the cable itself. After lightly greasing the cable, reassemble the connection. (You may have to hand turn the cable end to align it with the square hole in the cable drive shaft.) Tighten it all down. Use mechanics pliers on the knurled cap and the Allen head wrench on the Y-yoke. (BTW, this method assumes the knurled cap has not been deformed by overtightening in the attempt to seal the leak. If it has, it’s probably new cable time.) Final step: Start and ride the bike 'til the engine is up to temp then quit for the day. This procedure should solve your leak. BTW the shop mechanics won’t bother. Oh yeah–if this doesn’t fix it–try a heavier O ring.
There is an increasing number of questions regarding the setting of the idle jets (on Mikunis specifically I believe, or both Miks and Hibachis in general). Follow the links in the Triples homeboy page to the XS1100 pages. From there, you will find a tech tips section which goes into a very good explanation of the proper ways to set them (and carb sync procedures, too if I’m not mistaken). What it boils down to is, working on 1 carb at a time, you turn the idle jet in until the engine stumbles, then turn it out, counting the number of turns until it stumbles again. Then set it halfway between the two stumble points. Repeat for carbs 2 & 3. Afterwards, resync your carbs, cuz this procedure affects the synching.
Even after hours in two different chemical carb cleaner baths, the flat surface that turns against rubber peice with four holes in it was not flat. Some slight deposits or pitting, could feel it when I ran my finger over it. (CBMMA microscopic surface inspection). I resurced this to return it to truly flat. Used a piece of 800 wet or dry papaer, oil with wd40, placed on a piece of 1" thickplate glass. I learned years ago that if you need a cheap truly flat surface, that a piece of scrap plate glass works. I took off only a tiny bit and it was flat and smooth again, which I think will give a better seal. On the other side, where the o ring on the plunger seats, as I started to reassemble, on close inspection, I found some slight corrosion on the tapered metal seat in the petcock body. This could have prevented proper seating of the o-ring and allowed the o-ring to weep. It took a small tapered hand reamer (though anything will probably do) wrapped some 000 steel wool around it and twisted it against the tapered seat to polish it. Just a few turns and it polish right up. Put them all together and so far have tried to blow through them and they seem tight. Will know for sure when I reassemble and try the tank.
Herb Bell wrote an article on installing in-line shutoffs after the petcocks valves. (LINK CURRENTLY UNAVAILABLE)
The middle drive high marking is 65 mm, the low marking is 68 mm. The rear drive high marking is 19 mm, and the low is 23 mm.
Here is a picture (thanks to Bob Gray)
In their infinite wisdom, Yamaha decided to use the oil light as an indicator for a burned out tail light bulb. So the light has a double meaning. If you are absolutely sure there’s not a problem with your oiling system, check your tail light bulb. Here’s a JPG of the circuit:
Should I Buy One From Yamaha?
I still have the original Yamaha tool kit that came with the bike. It is even still in the original cheap plastic pouch.
Take my advice. Don’t buy one from Yamaha. They are cheap tools that I won’t even use. There are a selection of open ended spanners (wrenches for our American readers) in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. There is a badly made Philips double ended screwdriver and handle. Point sizes 1 and 2. Stupid thing here is all the cross head screws on the bike have PosiDriv heads. These are a different shape slot to the Philips ones. A pair of slip jaw pliers and a spark plug spanner live in there too. And a 5mm and 6mm Hex key. There is a 24mm and a 27mm box spanner (very thin) and extension handle for removing axle nuts and the middle and final drive gear case dipstick.
Go to your local tool supplier. Buy good quality tools. I use either Aigo or Sidchrome spanners. I use Stanley screwdrivers. I have a set of Facom hex keys. And a good socket set.
Real money spent on good tools is money you only spend once. A lot of mine are getting on for 20 years old. And yet they still feel like my new tools. Well, they are. I haven’t bought things to replace them as they still work well.
And if this sounds like I have broken out of the CBMMA philosophy, some of the cheapest bastards I know have the best tools. Reason? They only buy once, and with good tools, they can make the most amazing things. Without spending any more money.
Sorry this turned into a bit of a rant, but I feel strongly about this. I have seen too many jobs turned to shit by using shoddy tools that broke, or broke the workpiece, or by using the wrong tool.
Welcome to YamahaXS.com! woohoo! I would like to thank everyone who joins and contributes, without all of you this site can’t function.
I would like to explain why this site came into existence.
yamaha-triples.org has been around since way back in 2001, and has been a great resource for all yamaha xs750/xs850 enthusiasts. Over the past few years that site has really started to fall apart.
After talking to the facebook community who were members, or wanted to be members of that site it became apparent that the old site just wasn’t cutting it anymore, with the lack of response from the owner/admin, outdated software, broken registration, etc it made a lot of sense to go ahead and create a new site to handle all of the Yamaha XS750/XS850 needs.
Over the next few months there will be a big undergoing to populate the forums with yamaha-triples.org content, since we do not own this content we will be sure to make a reference to the original content, yamahaxs.com will not claim to own that content in anyway. If anyone is interested in helping with this endeavor, please reach out to me.
This site is brand new, so I decided to go through and make topics/sub-topics, etc that made sense to keep the clutter and wasted space to a minimum, if anyone has any input or suggestions for the site, please feel free to post in the “Comments & Feedback” board.
There will be more updates to come.
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