Next up, insert the Plastic Orange Oil Separator
Apply silastic to the oil breather cover and to the crank case with a new gasket in between and bolt it up
On to the Middle drive gear now - Again silastic and new gasket!
Slide on the spring and drive adapter
And Bolt it all up!
Carefully turn the engine over
Insert Dowels for the Oil pump
Check the seal on the oil pump and apply some silastic
Carefully install the Oil pump assembly to the bottom of the crank case. Make sure it sits flush and the gear is engaged properly. Bolt it on and then add the strainer housing.
Poor some oil into the Strainer housing to prime the oil pump and screw on the strainer screen
Get your sump ready - Silastic and Gasket! For now I’ll be using the standard sump, but I have a deep one which I’ll put on when I do my next oil change.
Bolt the sump to the bottom of the crank case.
Next is the XS850 oil cooler adapter plate. Make sure the large O-ring is in good condition and run some silastic around it. Bolt it onto the bottom of the engine and torque the bolt up to the specification in the book.
Carfully turn the engine over again, and install the starter motor.
Next is Pistons and Rings!
This can be a bit tricky and the battery for my camera was getting low so I didnt get too many Pics, But gently slide the new rings on and line them up as per the directions in the book.
Insert Gudgeon Pin into the side of the piston and place on top of the conrod. Gently slide the gudgeon pin through the rod and then all the way through the piston. Secure the gudgeon pin with a new circlip - Have fun doing this, and make sure you cover all holes on top of the crank case with a rag so the clip doesnt accidently fall in. Otherwise you could be in big trouble.
Repeat for the remaining 2 pistons.
Install New seal with Silastic
Place Dowels into the crankcase. Add rubber O-rings to the larger two dowels. Make sure the flat side of the O-ring faces up
Add Cylinder Base Gasket and make sure the dowel is in place
Turn cylinder over and with some silastic place the orange O-rings into the groove
Next, gently slide the cylinders onto the crankcase studs. Feed the cam chain through and secure with wire so the chain doesnt fall back into the crankcase.
Compress the Piston rings with your fingers and gently slide the cylinders onto the pistons
Make sure the crank is at Top Dead Centre.
Fit seal to the grove with some silastic
Gently place head gasket on over the studs and place cam chain and guides through the opening.
Next up is dowels again. Make sure the 2 larger dowels on the RHS have the O-ring with the flat side up.
Carefully slide the head onto the studs and feed cam chain through the opening and again secure the ends of the chain with wire so it doesnt slide down
Place nuts with washers onto the ends of the studs. The two centre nuts on the exhaust side have a thicker washer. Torque them down in the order specified in the book to 25 ft lb
Install the bolts on the sides and torque them to 14 ft lb
Turn Exhaust cam to approx 11 o’clock and install the cam caps as labeled from Left to Right and torque the nuts down to 7 ft lb
With the Inlet cam, turn it to approx 2 o’clock and repeat - install cam caps and torque from left to right.
Now rotate the exhaust cam clockwise and the Inlet cam anti-clockwise so the Dots align with the Lines on the cam caps
Next, attach cam chain together with new master link. I use some wooden clothes pegs as wedges to stop the chain from falling down. Cover the openings with a rag to stop the master link from falling into the crankcase.
Install the Cam chain ‘bridge’ guide
Attach Cam chain tensioner with new gasket and silastic. Remove the end cap and loosen the lock bolt on the side.
Rotate the crank anti clockwise. Watch the end of the cam chain tensioner. You’ll notice that it moves In and Out.
When the end of the tensioner is in as far as it will go, then tighten up the bolt on the side of the tensioner and tighten the locknut
Install the cap on the end of the tensioner