Okkkk I did some more work today! As much as I could before the batterys in the camera died! Could have done a few more things, but we’ll wait until next time!

Install the oil pressure switch. I put some loctite on the threads and some silastic on the o-ring

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Then the boot with the wire for the harness

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Next, install the shift lever shaft. I installed a new seal 1st. Gently push it all the way through.

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And inside the case check its lined up correctly

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Add the washer and circlip

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Install the secondary shift paw and E-clip

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Shift the transmission into 2nd gear, and make sure these 2 markings line up

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If they dont, losen the nut and adjust the screw until the markings line up. I applied loctite to the threads to make it harder for the nut to work loose

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Next up, we install the kick start assembly.
Insert the shaft and clip on the spring. Attach the kick lever and turn the shaft anti-clockwise until the shaft has locked into the case

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Install the shim washer, roller bearings and the kick starter idle gear, along with the shim washer and circlip to secure it.

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Clutch assembly comes next, Slide on the spacer and the washer

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Ok, I did some research while I was waiting around for parts, I looked on the xs650 and xs1100 sites to find some clutch tips, why? Because they’re very similar models, and for some reason theyve got more followers that have done more work to them
All these steps are to minimise future clutch slip.

From the Clutch Boss assembly, remove the wire clip that goes around the bottom holding the metal clutch plate in place. Use some thin pliers and a thin screw driver.

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Remove the metal plate. This plate is the same as the other metal clutch plates in the XS750 clutch, or the same as the 2 thin plates in the XS850 clutch. You can either reuse it if its ok and not scored badly etc or if you’ve got one of the above mentioned metal clutch plates spare thats ok, use that. My plan is to just turn it around, as the otherside hasnt yet come into contact with the other moving clutch parts

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Clean up the surface with some emery paper, nothing too coarse as we just only want to lightly roughen up the surface.

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Finished product!

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Clean the plate in some solvent and its ready to go back on.

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Next it to replace the wire clip that holds the metal plate in place

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Make sure the wire sits in the grove properly that runs around the bottom of the clutch boss

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Slide on the clutch boss assembly, the conical washer - convex side out, the lock washer and the boss nut

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Seen these tools before? They’re From ‘Bills Second gearfix’ on the triples website. 2 metal clutch plates welded together with a metal bar, used to stop the clutch boss assembly from turning while tightening the nut with the deep socket.

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Like so…
Book says to tighten this nut to 83 ft lb, but I dont have a socket big enough for this so I just made it very tight!

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Lastly, bend up the side of the lock washer to stop the nut from comming loose

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Brand new clutch friction plates - They must soak in engine oil overnight - use the same oil as you would put in your Triple engine

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Measure the thickness of your steel clutch plates, they shouldnt be too worn at all and can be reused.
XS750 plates are all 1.6mm, XS850 plates outer 2 are 1.6mm and inner 4 are 2mm. Im using XS850 plates.

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Clean them up with emery paper! Make sure you do both sides! Clean them in solvent once done.

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Also roughen up the edge of the clutch pressure plate and also clean in solvent, mine was really shiney and smooth as if it had been professionaly machine polished!

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Next, install the clutch plates… starting with a friction plate

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And then a steel plate

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Then alternate until all the discs are used…

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Credit: yamaha-triples.org