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  • [Archive] (Part 3) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    We’re Onto the LHS today…

    1st is the transmission countershaft bearing housing. Apply silastic around the O ring and around the edge


    Install into the motor with the 4 allen bolts


    Install the oil delivery pipe and torque the bolts to 14ft lb


    Next are the cam chain guides. Make sure you’ve got the dowel through the middle, and the washers either side


    Next install the starter clutch. Make sure you’ve got the large shim washer behind and the smaller one infront


    Next is cam chain, Ive got a new one from Steve Lloyd…


    Install the chain and secure the ends with wire so it doesnt fall back in


    Install the oil pump drive gear, make sure its slotted into the gear on the crank correctly, install the washer and torque the bolt to 73 ft lb


    And lastly the starter motor Idle gear and shaft


    Next, carefully install the Clutch pushrod from the LHS of the engine, rotate it as you gently push it past the seal


    Apply some grease to the rear of the Clutch Push Lever Assembly that the clutch cable attaches to


    Next apply some silastic to the mating face of the LHS Engine cover


    And also silastic to the crank case


    Put new gasket on and check that the dowels are in place


    Bolt on the LH Side cover, make sure you put washers under the 2 bolts with Red arrows


    LHS Completed - Back to the clutch now…

    Install the ball bearing into the shaft


    Push it in with a thin screw driver until its against the end of the pushrod


    Install the rectangular bar


    And slide the washer over so its against the rectangular bar


    Next is to install the clutch pressure plate. Make sure the arrows on the front of the pressure plate line up with the arrows on the clutch boss assembly


    Get your clutch springs ready. If the length is 41.5mm or less they need to be replaced. I’ve got a set of Barnett Heavy Duty springs for mine


    Install 2 springs with bolts and tighten them with a screw driver, but not all the way, because as you can see in the picture, the tabs on the clutch plates need to be aligned properly


    To align the tabs on the clutch plates, slide on the clutch outer housing, and the ‘fingers’ on the housing will help align the tabs, you might need to turn/adjust some by hand to get it right.


    Remove the clutch outer housing and tighten the 2 bolts. Install the remaining 4 bolts and then torque them all up to 6 ft lb


    Install new circlip


    And then slide washer on


    Slide on the clutch outer housing and make sure you dont forget the large shim - indicated with the red arrow


    Next, primary chain and the Primary driven gear. I’ve got a new primary chain, so I wont be using a tensioner for now.


    Insert the clutch damper assembly into the Primary driven Gear


    Next is the Large Circlip which can be a little bit tricky to get on


    And then Shim followed by washer and then small circlip


    Bearing housing bracket is next. Make sure the dowels are in place and tighten the 4 bolts that hold it on


    Apply Silastic to the RHS Cover


    And to the Crank case mating surface. Make sure the dowels are in place.


    Put new gasket on, and gently tap the side cover on with a soft mallet


    Bolt it all up, and install the Alternator Rotor torque the bolt up to specification in the book




    posted in Mechanical
  • [Archive] (Part 2) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    Okkkk I did some more work today! As much as I could before the batterys in the camera died! Could have done a few more things, but we’ll wait until next time!

    Install the oil pressure switch. I put some loctite on the threads and some silastic on the o-ring


    Then the boot with the wire for the harness


    Next, install the shift lever shaft. I installed a new seal 1st. Gently push it all the way through.


    And inside the case check its lined up correctly


    Add the washer and circlip


    Install the secondary shift paw and E-clip


    Shift the transmission into 2nd gear, and make sure these 2 markings line up


    If they dont, losen the nut and adjust the screw until the markings line up. I applied loctite to the threads to make it harder for the nut to work loose


    Next up, we install the kick start assembly.
    Insert the shaft and clip on the spring. Attach the kick lever and turn the shaft anti-clockwise until the shaft has locked into the case


    Install the shim washer, roller bearings and the kick starter idle gear, along with the shim washer and circlip to secure it.


    Clutch assembly comes next, Slide on the spacer and the washer


    Ok, I did some research while I was waiting around for parts, I looked on the xs650 and xs1100 sites to find some clutch tips, why? Because they’re very similar models, and for some reason theyve got more followers that have done more work to them
    All these steps are to minimise future clutch slip.

    From the Clutch Boss assembly, remove the wire clip that goes around the bottom holding the metal clutch plate in place. Use some thin pliers and a thin screw driver.


    Remove the metal plate. This plate is the same as the other metal clutch plates in the XS750 clutch, or the same as the 2 thin plates in the XS850 clutch. You can either reuse it if its ok and not scored badly etc or if you’ve got one of the above mentioned metal clutch plates spare thats ok, use that. My plan is to just turn it around, as the otherside hasnt yet come into contact with the other moving clutch parts


    Clean up the surface with some emery paper, nothing too coarse as we just only want to lightly roughen up the surface.


    Finished product!


    Clean the plate in some solvent and its ready to go back on.


    Next it to replace the wire clip that holds the metal plate in place


    Make sure the wire sits in the grove properly that runs around the bottom of the clutch boss


    Slide on the clutch boss assembly, the conical washer - convex side out, the lock washer and the boss nut


    Seen these tools before? They’re From ‘Bills Second gearfix’ on the triples website. 2 metal clutch plates welded together with a metal bar, used to stop the clutch boss assembly from turning while tightening the nut with the deep socket.


    Like so…
    Book says to tighten this nut to 83 ft lb, but I dont have a socket big enough for this so I just made it very tight!


    Lastly, bend up the side of the lock washer to stop the nut from comming loose


    Brand new clutch friction plates - They must soak in engine oil overnight - use the same oil as you would put in your Triple engine


    Measure the thickness of your steel clutch plates, they shouldnt be too worn at all and can be reused.
    XS750 plates are all 1.6mm, XS850 plates outer 2 are 1.6mm and inner 4 are 2mm. Im using XS850 plates.


    Clean them up with emery paper! Make sure you do both sides! Clean them in solvent once done.


    Also roughen up the edge of the clutch pressure plate and also clean in solvent, mine was really shiney and smooth as if it had been professionaly machine polished!


    Next, install the clutch plates… starting with a friction plate


    And then a steel plate


    Then alternate until all the discs are used…



    posted in Mechanical
  • [Archive] (Part 1) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    Today class, we’re rebuilding my Triple engine. Dont know how long its going to take me but some pretty pics with words surely will help others rebuild theirs later on…

    I know this has been done in the past by other forum members, but I’m going to show my engine getting rebuilt from scratch!

    1st of all we start with the crank case top half…
    I had my top half sandblasted and repainted with Hi-temp black paint


    Turn it over and let the fun begin.
    Install the kickstarter gear. Manouver the shaft in, and line up the clip into the case and install the holder and the allen bolts. Then put the gear on with the washer and circlip


    Next we’re going to install the bearings.
    Now in my case, the crank was linshed and the rods were resized and completely cleaned up by a machining shop.
    They even had to remove the balls on the sides of the crank to clean out the crap that had accumulated behind and into the crank.
    The machine shop said for me to use the biggest size bearings - these are the ones Yamaha marked blue. I was advised to put the new bearings in and torque the cases up and make sure everything spins freely. You probably wont need to do this, but its always good to dummy assemble like this…

    Anyways here I learnt that Ebay is your friend… Bearing shell kits, a LOT cheaper than paying the arm or leg that Yamahaha charges!



    Install the bearing shells into the crankcase, dont forget about the sidethrust bearing



    Apply oil to the bearing surfaces:


    And carefully place the crank into the case


    Next get your nice clean rods, install the bearing shells and apply oil to the bearing surfaces.




    Assemble them onto the crank and carefully tighten the rod bolts to the required 27 ft lb


    Rods are on!


    Now gently lift the crank and insert the rods through the holes into their correct position


    Thats the top half done! (well for now)

    Next Insert the bearings into the crank case bottom half, and apply oil to the bearing surfaces!


    Insert the case locating dowels, disregard the one in the middle there… its just there for looks and isnt actually needed at all


    Put the cases together!


    Install bolts numbered 1-10. Then tighten in 2 steps with your torque wrench to the specifications in the book
    1st stage i think is 16 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 7 ft lb for bolts 9-10
    2nd stage is 27 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 14 for bolts 9-10 (will check book later to confirm these numbers)


    Now turn the crank, make sure everything spins freely with your new bearings etc etc


    All Fantastic!

    Now pull it apart again!!
    Losen bolts 1/2 turn in reverse order to how you installed them, and then remove them in that order.


    And now we’ve got the 2 crankcase halves separated - Top half with the crank still sitting there, and bottom half ready for the transmission to be installed.


    Put the top half with crank aside, as its not needed for a little while, and be ready for the next part - Installing the transmission!!

    Ok… I cheated a little bit, as you may have seen in a few of the above pics, some of the transmission was already installed when I started!

    I’ll tell how to do it anyways…
    Install the shift cam


    Install the detent bolt and neutral switch


    And the locating bolt


    Manouver the gear shaft into place


    Place the clip into the grove on the bearing, and install the cap so the clip sits in the grove and holds the bearing in the correct position


    Insert the shift forks onto the 4th and 5th gears and line the pins up into the shift cam
    Insert the fork shaft through the RHS of the engine so it passes through the gearshaft cap, add the washer, and push the shaft through the shift forks.


    Install the E-clip, making sure it holds the washer against the gearshaft cap.


    The SF model has a lock-bracket to stop the nuts from working loose. Place the lock bracket over over the studs, and apply loctite to the threads.


    Install the nuts and torque to correct specification of 14 ft lb
    Carefully bend the lock tabs up very gently by hitting a screwdriver against them with a hammer so they’re locked in place. The tabs break easily, notice one has already broken off!


    Apply loctite to the layshaft bolt


    And install it with the spring washer and plate washer into the countershaft


    Hold the gearshaft with a big screwdriver, and torque the countershaft bolt to 18 ft lb


    Next, Install the main gearshaft


    Add the shift fork, insert the bar and install the E clips as shown here


    And here


    Next, install the Clutch pushrod seal. Apply some grease to the lip. I’ve run some gasket sealant around the outside of the seal


    Next add the middle gear assembly. Take note in the book of how the circlip halves sit. Again with the seal, Ive applied gasket sealant around it.


    Again apply oil to your bearing shells


    And place the crank into the case


    Dont forget to add this O-ring!


    Apply gasket sealant to the mating surfaces of both crank halves


    Carefully join both halves together, check the locating dowels have inserted properly.


    Next, carefully turn it all over and start installing bolts 1-14 in the correct numbered pattern, and then torque them in the two stages again.
    Torque stages for the bolts are:
    1st stage, bolts 1-8 are 13 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 7 ft lb
    2nd stage, bolts 1-8 are 27 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 14 ft lb


    Turn it over and do the same with bolts 15-24, and again torque these in two stages.


    Then install the last bolt which goes in the RHS above the layshaft bolt


    Now there you are, assembled engine crankcase, waiting for more!


    Next up will be the installation of the clutch components, the electric starter gears and the pistons/cylinders/head etc
    Like I said, this may take me some time (well the rest definitely will) so keep checking for updates, and feel free to comment!!


    posted in Mechanical
  • RE: XS750 rotating engine stand

    All welded up



    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Content Migration Effort

    @rendrmoto said in Content Migration Effort:

    I would like to help

    I added you as a data migrator, I’ll message you info.

    posted in Open Topic
  • RE: Carburetor : missing gas admission on middle carb

    those ports are typically used for syncing the 3 carbs together, when not in use the middle port is just capped off.

    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Carburetor : missing gas admission on middle carb

    Perhaps yes, I haven’t looked at the scheme yet but that may be it, the middle one was discand I don’t whether it’s normal or not

    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Plane/Rod bearings.

    From what I am reading on the net the “30” refers to the thickness of the bearings, from 00 to 50. So giving the fact that apparently these pieces wear off anyway (slowly but they do) apparently you will be able to use any others from 00 10 20 40 and 50 and the bike will “get used to it” with time without risking anything.

    Good to know also : apparently XS1100 use the same parts, we need to check but I suspect XS850 should use the same parts.

    Another tip : look for 2F3116563000 (without the spaces like in 2F3-11656-30-00) , I managed to find this page which apparently sells these parts, but I don’t know anything about this website so remain careful.

    posted in Marketplace

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