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  • [Archive] (Part 3) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    We’re Onto the LHS today…

    1st is the transmission countershaft bearing housing. Apply silastic around the O ring and around the edge

    0_1511096734650_78.JPG

    Install into the motor with the 4 allen bolts

    0_1511096755454_79.JPG

    Install the oil delivery pipe and torque the bolts to 14ft lb

    0_1511096769150_80.JPG

    Next are the cam chain guides. Make sure you’ve got the dowel through the middle, and the washers either side

    0_1511096784197_81.JPG

    Next install the starter clutch. Make sure you’ve got the large shim washer behind and the smaller one infront

    0_1511096803009_82.JPG

    Next is cam chain, Ive got a new one from Steve Lloyd…

    0_1511096818241_83.JPG

    Install the chain and secure the ends with wire so it doesnt fall back in

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    Install the oil pump drive gear, make sure its slotted into the gear on the crank correctly, install the washer and torque the bolt to 73 ft lb

    0_1511096869587_85.JPG

    And lastly the starter motor Idle gear and shaft

    0_1511096894524_86.JPG

    Next, carefully install the Clutch pushrod from the LHS of the engine, rotate it as you gently push it past the seal

    0_1511096912854_87.JPG

    Apply some grease to the rear of the Clutch Push Lever Assembly that the clutch cable attaches to

    0_1511096933125_88.JPG

    Next apply some silastic to the mating face of the LHS Engine cover

    0_1511096954169_89.JPG

    And also silastic to the crank case

    0_1511096978280_90.JPG

    Put new gasket on and check that the dowels are in place

    0_1511097007631_91.JPG

    Bolt on the LH Side cover, make sure you put washers under the 2 bolts with Red arrows

    0_1511097062644_92.JPG

    LHS Completed - Back to the clutch now…

    Install the ball bearing into the shaft

    0_1511097086551_93.JPG

    Push it in with a thin screw driver until its against the end of the pushrod

    0_1511097108949_94.JPG

    Install the rectangular bar

    0_1511097125735_95.JPG

    And slide the washer over so its against the rectangular bar

    0_1511097145262_96.JPG

    Next is to install the clutch pressure plate. Make sure the arrows on the front of the pressure plate line up with the arrows on the clutch boss assembly

    0_1511097166220_97.JPG

    Get your clutch springs ready. If the length is 41.5mm or less they need to be replaced. I’ve got a set of Barnett Heavy Duty springs for mine

    0_1511097180192_98.JPG

    Install 2 springs with bolts and tighten them with a screw driver, but not all the way, because as you can see in the picture, the tabs on the clutch plates need to be aligned properly

    0_1511097198198_99.JPG

    To align the tabs on the clutch plates, slide on the clutch outer housing, and the ‘fingers’ on the housing will help align the tabs, you might need to turn/adjust some by hand to get it right.

    0_1511097217336_100.JPG

    Remove the clutch outer housing and tighten the 2 bolts. Install the remaining 4 bolts and then torque them all up to 6 ft lb

    0_1511097243604_101.JPG

    Install new circlip

    0_1511097257732_102.JPG

    And then slide washer on

    0_1511097273335_103.JPG

    Slide on the clutch outer housing and make sure you dont forget the large shim - indicated with the red arrow

    0_1511097296487_104.JPG

    Next, primary chain and the Primary driven gear. I’ve got a new primary chain, so I wont be using a tensioner for now.

    0_1511097321860_105.JPG

    Insert the clutch damper assembly into the Primary driven Gear

    0_1511097337526_106.JPG

    Next is the Large Circlip which can be a little bit tricky to get on

    0_1511097354872_107.JPG

    And then Shim followed by washer and then small circlip

    0_1511097373151_108.JPG

    Bearing housing bracket is next. Make sure the dowels are in place and tighten the 4 bolts that hold it on

    0_1511097390627_109.JPG

    Apply Silastic to the RHS Cover

    0_1511097400531_110.JPG

    And to the Crank case mating surface. Make sure the dowels are in place.

    0_1511097413888_111.JPG

    Put new gasket on, and gently tap the side cover on with a soft mallet

    0_1511097429809_112.JPG

    Bolt it all up, and install the Alternator Rotor torque the bolt up to specification in the book

    0_1511097438730_113.JPG

    RHS COMPLETED!

    Credit: yamaha-triples.org

    posted in Mechanical
  • [Archive] (Part 2) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    Okkkk I did some more work today! As much as I could before the batterys in the camera died! Could have done a few more things, but we’ll wait until next time!

    Install the oil pressure switch. I put some loctite on the threads and some silastic on the o-ring

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    Then the boot with the wire for the harness

    0_1511095723793_50.JPG

    Next, install the shift lever shaft. I installed a new seal 1st. Gently push it all the way through.

    0_1511095739008_51.JPG

    And inside the case check its lined up correctly

    0_1511095757901_52.JPG

    Add the washer and circlip

    0_1511095775705_53.JPG

    Install the secondary shift paw and E-clip

    0_1511095797864_54.JPG

    Shift the transmission into 2nd gear, and make sure these 2 markings line up

    0_1511095820706_55.JPG

    If they dont, losen the nut and adjust the screw until the markings line up. I applied loctite to the threads to make it harder for the nut to work loose

    0_1511095849739_56.JPG

    Next up, we install the kick start assembly.
    Insert the shaft and clip on the spring. Attach the kick lever and turn the shaft anti-clockwise until the shaft has locked into the case

    0_1511095868218_57.JPG

    Install the shim washer, roller bearings and the kick starter idle gear, along with the shim washer and circlip to secure it.

    0_1511095885975_58.JPG

    Clutch assembly comes next, Slide on the spacer and the washer

    0_1511095915212_59.JPG

    Ok, I did some research while I was waiting around for parts, I looked on the xs650 and xs1100 sites to find some clutch tips, why? Because they’re very similar models, and for some reason theyve got more followers that have done more work to them
    All these steps are to minimise future clutch slip.

    From the Clutch Boss assembly, remove the wire clip that goes around the bottom holding the metal clutch plate in place. Use some thin pliers and a thin screw driver.

    0_1511095941701_60.JPG

    Remove the metal plate. This plate is the same as the other metal clutch plates in the XS750 clutch, or the same as the 2 thin plates in the XS850 clutch. You can either reuse it if its ok and not scored badly etc or if you’ve got one of the above mentioned metal clutch plates spare thats ok, use that. My plan is to just turn it around, as the otherside hasnt yet come into contact with the other moving clutch parts

    0_1511095956314_61.JPG

    Clean up the surface with some emery paper, nothing too coarse as we just only want to lightly roughen up the surface.

    0_1511095972625_62.JPG

    Finished product!

    0_1511095984964_63.JPG

    Clean the plate in some solvent and its ready to go back on.

    0_1511096002077_64.JPG

    Next it to replace the wire clip that holds the metal plate in place

    0_1511096024460_65.JPG

    Make sure the wire sits in the grove properly that runs around the bottom of the clutch boss

    0_1511096044543_66.JPG

    Slide on the clutch boss assembly, the conical washer - convex side out, the lock washer and the boss nut

    0_1511096062395_67.JPG

    Seen these tools before? They’re From ‘Bills Second gearfix’ on the triples website. 2 metal clutch plates welded together with a metal bar, used to stop the clutch boss assembly from turning while tightening the nut with the deep socket.

    0_1511096078306_68.JPG

    Like so…
    Book says to tighten this nut to 83 ft lb, but I dont have a socket big enough for this so I just made it very tight!

    0_1511096096221_69.JPG

    Lastly, bend up the side of the lock washer to stop the nut from comming loose

    0_1511096112457_70.JPG

    Brand new clutch friction plates - They must soak in engine oil overnight - use the same oil as you would put in your Triple engine

    0_1511096124773_71.JPG

    Measure the thickness of your steel clutch plates, they shouldnt be too worn at all and can be reused.
    XS750 plates are all 1.6mm, XS850 plates outer 2 are 1.6mm and inner 4 are 2mm. Im using XS850 plates.

    0_1511096146519_72.JPG

    Clean them up with emery paper! Make sure you do both sides! Clean them in solvent once done.

    0_1511096165156_73.JPG

    Also roughen up the edge of the clutch pressure plate and also clean in solvent, mine was really shiney and smooth as if it had been professionaly machine polished!

    0_1511096190482_74.JPG

    Next, install the clutch plates… starting with a friction plate

    0_1511096203363_75.JPG

    And then a steel plate

    0_1511096217637_76.JPG

    Then alternate until all the discs are used…

    0_1511096233815_77.JPG

    Credit: yamaha-triples.org

    posted in Mechanical
  • [Archive] (Part 1) Re-assembling your Triple Engine - How to With Pics!

    Today class, we’re rebuilding my Triple engine. Dont know how long its going to take me but some pretty pics with words surely will help others rebuild theirs later on…

    I know this has been done in the past by other forum members, but I’m going to show my engine getting rebuilt from scratch!

    1st of all we start with the crank case top half…
    I had my top half sandblasted and repainted with Hi-temp black paint

    0_1511093458957_01.JPG

    Turn it over and let the fun begin.
    Install the kickstarter gear. Manouver the shaft in, and line up the clip into the case and install the holder and the allen bolts. Then put the gear on with the washer and circlip

    0_1511093482742_02.JPG

    Next we’re going to install the bearings.
    Now in my case, the crank was linshed and the rods were resized and completely cleaned up by a machining shop.
    They even had to remove the balls on the sides of the crank to clean out the crap that had accumulated behind and into the crank.
    The machine shop said for me to use the biggest size bearings - these are the ones Yamaha marked blue. I was advised to put the new bearings in and torque the cases up and make sure everything spins freely. You probably wont need to do this, but its always good to dummy assemble like this…

    Anyways here I learnt that Ebay is your friend… Bearing shell kits, a LOT cheaper than paying the arm or leg that Yamahaha charges!

    0_1511093500673_03.JPG

    0_1511093522334_04.JPG

    Install the bearing shells into the crankcase, dont forget about the sidethrust bearing

    0_1511093541250_05.JPG

    0_1511093561021_06.JPG

    Apply oil to the bearing surfaces:

    0_1511093575699_07.JPG

    And carefully place the crank into the case

    0_1511093598202_08.JPG

    Next get your nice clean rods, install the bearing shells and apply oil to the bearing surfaces.

    0_1511093616147_09.JPG

    0_1511093640050_10.JPG

    0_1511093656210_11.JPG

    Assemble them onto the crank and carefully tighten the rod bolts to the required 27 ft lb

    0_1511093680206_12.JPG

    Rods are on!

    0_1511093704203_13.JPG

    Now gently lift the crank and insert the rods through the holes into their correct position

    0_1511093733578_14.JPG

    Thats the top half done! (well for now)

    Next Insert the bearings into the crank case bottom half, and apply oil to the bearing surfaces!

    0_1511093760414_15.JPG

    Insert the case locating dowels, disregard the one in the middle there… its just there for looks and isnt actually needed at all

    0_1511093795240_16.JPG

    Put the cases together!

    0_1511093816003_17.JPG

    Install bolts numbered 1-10. Then tighten in 2 steps with your torque wrench to the specifications in the book
    1st stage i think is 16 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 7 ft lb for bolts 9-10
    2nd stage is 27 ft lb for bolts 1-8 and 14 for bolts 9-10 (will check book later to confirm these numbers)

    0_1511093854306_18.JPG

    Now turn the crank, make sure everything spins freely with your new bearings etc etc

    0_1511093884364_19.JPG

    All Fantastic!

    Now pull it apart again!!
    Losen bolts 1/2 turn in reverse order to how you installed them, and then remove them in that order.

    0_1511093903190_20.JPG

    And now we’ve got the 2 crankcase halves separated - Top half with the crank still sitting there, and bottom half ready for the transmission to be installed.

    0_1511093922177_21.JPG

    Put the top half with crank aside, as its not needed for a little while, and be ready for the next part - Installing the transmission!!

    Ok… I cheated a little bit, as you may have seen in a few of the above pics, some of the transmission was already installed when I started!

    I’ll tell how to do it anyways…
    Install the shift cam

    0_1511094453582_22.JPG

    Install the detent bolt and neutral switch

    0_1511094474372_23.JPG

    And the locating bolt

    0_1511094493039_24.JPG

    Manouver the gear shaft into place

    0_1511094510364_25.JPG

    Place the clip into the grove on the bearing, and install the cap so the clip sits in the grove and holds the bearing in the correct position

    0_1511094529294_26.JPG

    Insert the shift forks onto the 4th and 5th gears and line the pins up into the shift cam
    Insert the fork shaft through the RHS of the engine so it passes through the gearshaft cap, add the washer, and push the shaft through the shift forks.

    0_1511094550441_27.JPG

    Install the E-clip, making sure it holds the washer against the gearshaft cap.

    0_1511094571969_28.JPG

    The SF model has a lock-bracket to stop the nuts from working loose. Place the lock bracket over over the studs, and apply loctite to the threads.

    0_1511094589358_30.JPG

    Install the nuts and torque to correct specification of 14 ft lb
    Carefully bend the lock tabs up very gently by hitting a screwdriver against them with a hammer so they’re locked in place. The tabs break easily, notice one has already broken off!

    0_1511094605042_31.JPG

    Apply loctite to the layshaft bolt

    0_1511094626595_32.JPG

    And install it with the spring washer and plate washer into the countershaft

    0_1511094647676_33.JPG

    Hold the gearshaft with a big screwdriver, and torque the countershaft bolt to 18 ft lb

    0_1511094737489_34.JPG

    Next, Install the main gearshaft

    0_1511094763190_35.JPG

    Add the shift fork, insert the bar and install the E clips as shown here

    0_1511094795706_36.JPG

    And here

    0_1511094810978_37.JPG

    Next, install the Clutch pushrod seal. Apply some grease to the lip. I’ve run some gasket sealant around the outside of the seal

    0_1511094845487_38.JPG

    Next add the middle gear assembly. Take note in the book of how the circlip halves sit. Again with the seal, Ive applied gasket sealant around it.

    0_1511094876015_39.JPG

    Again apply oil to your bearing shells

    0_1511094896201_40.JPG

    And place the crank into the case

    0_1511094917844_41.JPG

    Dont forget to add this O-ring!

    0_1511094936117_42.JPG

    Apply gasket sealant to the mating surfaces of both crank halves

    0_1511094952535_43.JPG

    Carefully join both halves together, check the locating dowels have inserted properly.

    0_1511094968758_44.JPG

    Next, carefully turn it all over and start installing bolts 1-14 in the correct numbered pattern, and then torque them in the two stages again.
    Torque stages for the bolts are:
    1st stage, bolts 1-8 are 13 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 7 ft lb
    2nd stage, bolts 1-8 are 27 ft lb. Bolts 9-24 are 14 ft lb

    0_1511094992376_45.JPG

    Turn it over and do the same with bolts 15-24, and again torque these in two stages.

    0_1511095009772_46.JPG

    Then install the last bolt which goes in the RHS above the layshaft bolt

    0_1511095023587_47.JPG

    Now there you are, assembled engine crankcase, waiting for more!

    0_1511095034552_48.JPG

    Next up will be the installation of the clutch components, the electric starter gears and the pistons/cylinders/head etc
    Like I said, this may take me some time (well the rest definitely will) so keep checking for updates, and feel free to comment!!

    Credit: yamaha-triples.org

    posted in Mechanical
  • RE: XS750 rotating engine stand

    All welded up

    0_1511051547207_20171118_192355-756x1008.jpg

    0_1511051562368_20171118_192411-756x1008.jpg

    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Content Migration Effort

    @rendrmoto said in Content Migration Effort:

    I would like to help

    I added you as a data migrator, I’ll message you info.

    posted in Open Topic
  • RE: Carburetor : missing gas admission on middle carb

    those ports are typically used for syncing the 3 carbs together, when not in use the middle port is just capped off.

    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Carburetor : missing gas admission on middle carb

    Perhaps yes, I haven’t looked at the scheme yet but that may be it, the middle one was discand I don’t whether it’s normal or not

    posted in Miscellaneous
  • RE: Plane/Rod bearings.

    From what I am reading on the net the “30” refers to the thickness of the bearings, from 00 to 50. So giving the fact that apparently these pieces wear off anyway (slowly but they do) apparently you will be able to use any others from 00 10 20 40 and 50 and the bike will “get used to it” with time without risking anything.

    Good to know also : apparently XS1100 use the same parts, we need to check but I suspect XS850 should use the same parts.

    Another tip : look for 2F3116563000 (without the spaces like in 2F3-11656-30-00) , I managed to find this page https://www.worldmotoparts.com/oem/page-unit.php?id=363905 which apparently sells these parts, but I don’t know anything about this website so remain careful.

    posted in Marketplace

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